New to suzuki
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New to suzuki
Hi all, I am from America. I speak some German but not the best.(as you can probably see in my introduction post) I have a 92GSX1100g. I have a few questions about it. I just finished cleaning my carbs and readjusting my floats. Im having all sorts of trouble figuring out how to get my carb to airbox boots back on. That brings me to the question, what will be my pros and cons to putting pod filters on? Thanks.
- YogiGSX
- Gitarrenlerche
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Re: New to suzuki
Hi Cole,
easiest way getting the carbs back on the airbox is having the battery and airfilter out and helping the rubbers to fit on the nozzles from inside with one hand inside the airbox.
The G runs quite well with K&N-Airfilter (as repacement for the original paper-filter).
Don't know if anyone got experience with univelsal (single) pod filters.
('cause they are not legal in Germany and you can't really hide them )
easiest way getting the carbs back on the airbox is having the battery and airfilter out and helping the rubbers to fit on the nozzles from inside with one hand inside the airbox.
The G runs quite well with K&N-Airfilter (as repacement for the original paper-filter).
Don't know if anyone got experience with univelsal (single) pod filters.
('cause they are not legal in Germany and you can't really hide them )
Allzeit gute Fahrt!
Yogi ... smarter than the average bear!
Yogi ... smarter than the average bear!
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- Schraubfix
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Re: New to suzuki
The 11G seems to want the airbox for slowing down the air and for providing a steady airflow to the CV-carbs.
Changing the original filter element to a k&n filter results in a lean mixture most of the times.
So if you want to fit the much more permeable pod filters, you´ll have to rejet the carbs totally.
This needs some skills, so if you struggle with getting your carbs back in, think it over!
(by the way: getting them back in IS a pain in the ass if you do it the first time and I´m not saying, you´re too dumb to do it. We have all started somewhen!)
The best way is to losen the airbox, take the battery and the battery rack off. Then hang the throttle cables in and try to guide the carbs between intakes and airbox, so the carbs come to sit into the rubber intakes of the cylinder head from beneath. Then tilt the carbs so they sit inside the rubber intakes and force them into the rubbers. This needs a bit of power, so take care, the bike does not hop off the main stand!
Then do like yogi wrote: take the airfilter off the airbox and try to guide the airbox-rubbers onto the carbs while carefully draging them on from the outside with a screwdriver or pliers.
Be careful not to pierce the Rubbers!
If that´s done, fix the clamps and bolt down the airbox.
The pilot screws should be somewhere between 1 1/2 and 1 3/4 turns out, depending on what model and what airfilter you have.
This should read between 2,50and 3,5 % CO in the exhaust fumes. As Long as the exhaust value is semewhere there, everything is ok. (warm engine, idle)
Now you are ready to synchronize the carbs to an even idle on all four carbs.
Good luck and feel free to ask if you´ve got problems
Changing the original filter element to a k&n filter results in a lean mixture most of the times.
So if you want to fit the much more permeable pod filters, you´ll have to rejet the carbs totally.
This needs some skills, so if you struggle with getting your carbs back in, think it over!
(by the way: getting them back in IS a pain in the ass if you do it the first time and I´m not saying, you´re too dumb to do it. We have all started somewhen!)
The best way is to losen the airbox, take the battery and the battery rack off. Then hang the throttle cables in and try to guide the carbs between intakes and airbox, so the carbs come to sit into the rubber intakes of the cylinder head from beneath. Then tilt the carbs so they sit inside the rubber intakes and force them into the rubbers. This needs a bit of power, so take care, the bike does not hop off the main stand!
Then do like yogi wrote: take the airfilter off the airbox and try to guide the airbox-rubbers onto the carbs while carefully draging them on from the outside with a screwdriver or pliers.
Be careful not to pierce the Rubbers!
If that´s done, fix the clamps and bolt down the airbox.
The pilot screws should be somewhere between 1 1/2 and 1 3/4 turns out, depending on what model and what airfilter you have.
This should read between 2,50and 3,5 % CO in the exhaust fumes. As Long as the exhaust value is semewhere there, everything is ok. (warm engine, idle)
Now you are ready to synchronize the carbs to an even idle on all four carbs.
Good luck and feel free to ask if you´ve got problems
- YogiGSX
- Gitarrenlerche
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- Registriert: Mo Sep 03, 2012 09:13
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Re: New to suzuki
Thx Claus for detailed instruction
I did it (first time) without tools and it went quite(!) well. (having battery etc. out, gives you enough free space to work)
Good luck!
I would try it without any tool to avoid damaging the rubbers.Lederclaus hat geschrieben:draging them on from the outside with a screwdriver or pliers.
Be careful not to pierce the Rubbers!
I did it (first time) without tools and it went quite(!) well. (having battery etc. out, gives you enough free space to work)
Sometimes seems that some more pilot gas might be recommendable: Mine needs 2 and a half turns to run solidy when idle. (having original carbs & k&n-filter)Lederclaus hat geschrieben:The pilot screws should be somewhere between 1 1/2 and 1 3/4 turns out, depending on what model and what airfilter you have.
Good luck!
Allzeit gute Fahrt!
Yogi ... smarter than the average bear!
Yogi ... smarter than the average bear!
- closey
- Ferryfix & iron butt
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Re: New to suzuki
Hi Cole, good advice from Yogi and Claus. It is a royal PIA to do but a little patience and a bit of application and you will succeed.
Closey
Closey
Re: New to suzuki
Thanks everybody. With that info I was able to get the airbox back on. It runs now, just idle kinda high for a little bit then returns to normal. Kind of like the choke is on but I haven't engaged it.
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- Schraubfix
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Re: New to suzuki
Cole, it seems to be a bit on the lean side. You should try to turn out all pilot screws out 1/2 turn counter clockwise). They are accessible quite well when engine is cold. Located on the engine-side of the carbs near the rubber intake pipes.cole40 hat geschrieben: It runs now, just idle kinda high for a little bit then returns to normal.
If that does not cure the problem, you should check how many turns they are out. If more than 2.5 turns out, they are out of their area of influence and you need to clean or change the pilot jets to original size (or higher if you have a sports airfilter)
Re: New to suzuki
Thanks for the advice, Im going to check that now. But ive ran into another problem. Now when i try to start the bike all i get is back firing and the engine turning over. It will sound like its going to run for about a tenth of a second but thats all.
Re: New to suzuki
So I figured out all the bikes issues today. I made a dumb move an incorrectly tightend my throttle cable so the throttle was basically staying on. Fixed that, bled the clutch master cylinder and changed the oil and spark plugs. The bike runs awesome now. I guess all thats left now is to get on it and RIDE. Oh and like I said im not very familiar with this bike so can anyone enlighten me on mods that are good for this bike? Thanks
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- Schraubfix
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Re: New to suzuki
Great you´ve got everything right now!
Well, mods... I would put stronger fork springs in. (the original ones are much too soft)
And, depending on the age of the rear shock, I would put a new shock in, that can cope with the weight of the bike and stops that swing boat action while riding.
If you chose the spring load of fork and rear shockabsorber to your personal weight, the bike will turn from a heavy load vehicle to a easy manageable cruiser.
Especially when the right tires are used. (I would recommend Bridgestone BT23 Battlax)
This all will need some money. So you should ride the bike for a while and if you really fall in love with it it´s time to modificate it lightly.
Have a great time with your ride!
Well, mods... I would put stronger fork springs in. (the original ones are much too soft)
And, depending on the age of the rear shock, I would put a new shock in, that can cope with the weight of the bike and stops that swing boat action while riding.
If you chose the spring load of fork and rear shockabsorber to your personal weight, the bike will turn from a heavy load vehicle to a easy manageable cruiser.
Especially when the right tires are used. (I would recommend Bridgestone BT23 Battlax)
This all will need some money. So you should ride the bike for a while and if you really fall in love with it it´s time to modificate it lightly.
Have a great time with your ride!
Re: New to suzuki
Thanks, Ill for sure look into the fork springs, and the previous owner of my bike put a GSXR rear shock on it, so i guess im good in that section. My bike has drag bars on it so id get more of the sportbike feel.
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- Stammgast
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Re: New to suzuki
Hi Cole,
How long do you have the G
Did you check the brake sattles Primarily the brake cylinders with the seals
My brakes were very dirty and the cylinders nearly fixed and i was surprised that they worked Cleaning and polish the surfaces, assemble new seals and you will have a better feeling. So please check it for your own security
Gruß aus DU
How long do you have the G
Did you check the brake sattles Primarily the brake cylinders with the seals
My brakes were very dirty and the cylinders nearly fixed and i was surprised that they worked Cleaning and polish the surfaces, assemble new seals and you will have a better feeling. So please check it for your own security
Gruß aus DU
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- Schraubfix
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Re: New to suzuki
He´s talking about the calipers. If the pistons are pushed back in when changing pads the goo and dirt is transported into the grooves of the sealing rings and blocks them, so the pads won´t come free anymore and the discs have more wear. The pistons and seals should always been taken out and be cleaned when changing pads.The groves have to be cleaned too. The seals can be used again, as long as they are not worn or bent. Lubricate them with dot 4 brake fluid when rebuiling the caliper.
Re: New to suzuki
Thanks guys, I actually had to go ahead and clean and rebuild my brakes. Got it done and cleaned up nice. But im having a issue. My bike will be running great for a little bit then randomly shut off? I had the carbs cleaned at a dealership within a month ago so i trust that they are clean. I have the feeling that my pilot screws arent adjusted right. If i get white smoke out of my left exhaust that means lean, correct?
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- Schraubfix
- Beiträge: 1588
- Registriert: Fr Jul 14, 2006 09:11
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Re: New to suzuki
No, mate. White smoke means burning oil.
It could be steam as well. It comes out when engine is half warm after starting it up.(no problem)
Black smoke means too rich.
Check the two left plugs (1st and 2nd cylinder) for oil or soot stains. If they are different to the plugs of 3rd and 4th cylinder you`re coming closer to the problem.
What you mean " running great for a little bit then randomly shut off"?
Engine shuts off totally? At which revs? With choke pulled out?
Remote diagnostics is not easy, I haven't got no crystal ball
Your issue could be caused by several reasons:
>uncorrect setting of the pilot screws (basic setting should do with two turns out)
>failed plug or cap
>uncorrect assembly of the carbs
>broken piston ring
>bent valve
>wrong valve clearance
I hope it's not a serious problem, keep us informed
regards, Claus
It could be steam as well. It comes out when engine is half warm after starting it up.(no problem)
Black smoke means too rich.
Check the two left plugs (1st and 2nd cylinder) for oil or soot stains. If they are different to the plugs of 3rd and 4th cylinder you`re coming closer to the problem.
What you mean " running great for a little bit then randomly shut off"?
Engine shuts off totally? At which revs? With choke pulled out?
Remote diagnostics is not easy, I haven't got no crystal ball
Your issue could be caused by several reasons:
>uncorrect setting of the pilot screws (basic setting should do with two turns out)
>failed plug or cap
>uncorrect assembly of the carbs
>broken piston ring
>bent valve
>wrong valve clearance
I hope it's not a serious problem, keep us informed
regards, Claus